Overview:
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularis) are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets with beginners and expert reptile keepers alike. They are a very gentile, calm, and nice natured reptile. They are nocturnal ground dwelling insectivores that are found in the dry-desert of Pakistan, Northern India, Afghanistan, and parts of Iran. Unlike most geckos, they have moveable eyelids and have no sticky pads on their toes. Leopard geckos can live as long as 15 years and some have been reported to live longer.
Size:
Hatchling leopard geckos are typically 1 1/2 to 2 inches long and weight from 2-4 grams. Adult leopard geckos can obtain lengths from 7-10 inches and can weight from 60-100 grams. Some genetic lines such as the Giants and Super Giants can obtain lengths of up to a foot long and can top 100+ grams. It can take 10-14+ months for a leopard gecko to reach maturity.
Housing:
When housing a leopard gecko, make sure they have ample amount of space in their environment. A 10 gallon tank or equivalent space works well for one gecko. When housing multiple animals you need to consider the sex of the geckos that will be housed together. In no situation should more then one male should be housed in the same tank. Males will get territorial if kept together. Males and females that are kept together will reproduce and the female will lay eggs. Make sure that you want this to happen before you put opposite sexed leopard geckos together.
Tank Temps:
All reptiles regulate their own body temperatures so it is necessary to provide a temperature gradient in the tank. The tank needs to have a warm side that reaches 92-98 degrees and a cold side that is around 80 degrees. The ambient temperature in the tank needs to be around 85 degrees. The most used heat source is a UTH or better known as a “Under Tank Heater.”
Tank Set-ups:
There needs to be one hide on the cold and warm sides of the tank. There should also be a moist hide in the tank, which helps in the shedding process. Shed skin left on the toes can constrict the blood flow and cause the toes to fall off. Tupperware dishes works great for moist hides as well as the warm and cold side hides. The tank also needs to have a bowl for water. You also may need another dish for calcium but this depend on what supplement you use on the feeders. It still is a good idea to have a dish of calcium in the tank either way. There are many substrates that you can use such as paper towels, tiles, rocks, and etc. Some marketed substrates can be harmful to your gecko. It is best to research all and see which one will work best for you. Lighting can be used even though leopard geckos are nocturnal creatures. I find the red bulbs are the best if a light is used.
Feeding:
Leopard geckos are insectivores and the most common food item that is given are crickets, meal worms, super-worms, and/or roaches. The prey should be of appropriate size for the gecko. All feeders need to be “Shaken” with a vitamin/calcium supplement before feeding. A recommended supplement is Sandfire Super Foods or Rapashy Calcium Plus leopard gecko supplements. With these, you won't have to have a calcium dish in the tank. Adult leopard geckos should be feed 3-4 times a week. Juveniles and hatchlings should be feed everyday. Take any un-eaten insects that are roaming around in the tank after 30 minutes. They can cause stress on the gecko. Feeders should be “gut loaded” which is feeding them a high nutritional meal. Feeders possess most of their nutrition from what they have in their stomachs. If you don’t “gut load” your feeders then they will have little nutritional value to them.
Handling:
The enjoyment of a pet comes from watching and handling them. Hatchling leopard geckos should be handled minimally at first. You can take your gecko out regularly once they have become acclimated to their environment. Sit down when you first start holding them and let them crawl through your fingers and get use to you. Don’t grab the gecko by the tail because it could possibly detach. The tail will regenerate but it will take several months. It will never look as good as the original.
Maintenance:
Take all soiled substrate out and replace once they are dirty. The tank should be completely cleaned and disinfected at least once or twice a month. There are many disinfectants that can be used, just make sure that the tank is aired out good and wiped down. Some examples are diluted bleach, Windex, vinegar, dish soap and etc.
Quarantine:
All newly acquired reptiles need to be housed individually for at least 30-90 days. This is just a precautionary measure to insure that they don’t have any disease and that the health of the gecko isn’t going to affect any that you have. You need to do this with all newly acquired reptiles no matter how well you trust the individual that you got them from.
Sexing:
Seeing whether you gecko is male or female is easy on older geckos and pretty much impossible on hatchlings. Leopard geckos reach maturity around 10-14 months old. Mature males have “V” shaped pre-anal pores. The males secrete a waxy substance from the pores which they use to mark their territory. They also have hemi penal glands that bulge at the base of the tail behind the hind legs. If your gecko has this bulge then it is a male. Males are also typically larger and have a broader head and neck.
Health:
Keeping an eye on your gecko or geckos is important. They are like any other creature and can have health problems if not properly cared for. Noticing any changes in their habits is vital to catching problems early. If you notice any problems that are concerning then take it to a vet as soon as you can. Any vet will work but one that specializes in reptiles is best. Its always good to find one in your area just in case you need one.
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularis) are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets with beginners and expert reptile keepers alike. They are a very gentile, calm, and nice natured reptile. They are nocturnal ground dwelling insectivores that are found in the dry-desert of Pakistan, Northern India, Afghanistan, and parts of Iran. Unlike most geckos, they have moveable eyelids and have no sticky pads on their toes. Leopard geckos can live as long as 15 years and some have been reported to live longer.
Size:
Hatchling leopard geckos are typically 1 1/2 to 2 inches long and weight from 2-4 grams. Adult leopard geckos can obtain lengths from 7-10 inches and can weight from 60-100 grams. Some genetic lines such as the Giants and Super Giants can obtain lengths of up to a foot long and can top 100+ grams. It can take 10-14+ months for a leopard gecko to reach maturity.
Housing:
When housing a leopard gecko, make sure they have ample amount of space in their environment. A 10 gallon tank or equivalent space works well for one gecko. When housing multiple animals you need to consider the sex of the geckos that will be housed together. In no situation should more then one male should be housed in the same tank. Males will get territorial if kept together. Males and females that are kept together will reproduce and the female will lay eggs. Make sure that you want this to happen before you put opposite sexed leopard geckos together.
Tank Temps:
All reptiles regulate their own body temperatures so it is necessary to provide a temperature gradient in the tank. The tank needs to have a warm side that reaches 92-98 degrees and a cold side that is around 80 degrees. The ambient temperature in the tank needs to be around 85 degrees. The most used heat source is a UTH or better known as a “Under Tank Heater.”
Tank Set-ups:
There needs to be one hide on the cold and warm sides of the tank. There should also be a moist hide in the tank, which helps in the shedding process. Shed skin left on the toes can constrict the blood flow and cause the toes to fall off. Tupperware dishes works great for moist hides as well as the warm and cold side hides. The tank also needs to have a bowl for water. You also may need another dish for calcium but this depend on what supplement you use on the feeders. It still is a good idea to have a dish of calcium in the tank either way. There are many substrates that you can use such as paper towels, tiles, rocks, and etc. Some marketed substrates can be harmful to your gecko. It is best to research all and see which one will work best for you. Lighting can be used even though leopard geckos are nocturnal creatures. I find the red bulbs are the best if a light is used.
Feeding:
Leopard geckos are insectivores and the most common food item that is given are crickets, meal worms, super-worms, and/or roaches. The prey should be of appropriate size for the gecko. All feeders need to be “Shaken” with a vitamin/calcium supplement before feeding. A recommended supplement is Sandfire Super Foods or Rapashy Calcium Plus leopard gecko supplements. With these, you won't have to have a calcium dish in the tank. Adult leopard geckos should be feed 3-4 times a week. Juveniles and hatchlings should be feed everyday. Take any un-eaten insects that are roaming around in the tank after 30 minutes. They can cause stress on the gecko. Feeders should be “gut loaded” which is feeding them a high nutritional meal. Feeders possess most of their nutrition from what they have in their stomachs. If you don’t “gut load” your feeders then they will have little nutritional value to them.
Handling:
The enjoyment of a pet comes from watching and handling them. Hatchling leopard geckos should be handled minimally at first. You can take your gecko out regularly once they have become acclimated to their environment. Sit down when you first start holding them and let them crawl through your fingers and get use to you. Don’t grab the gecko by the tail because it could possibly detach. The tail will regenerate but it will take several months. It will never look as good as the original.
Maintenance:
Take all soiled substrate out and replace once they are dirty. The tank should be completely cleaned and disinfected at least once or twice a month. There are many disinfectants that can be used, just make sure that the tank is aired out good and wiped down. Some examples are diluted bleach, Windex, vinegar, dish soap and etc.
Quarantine:
All newly acquired reptiles need to be housed individually for at least 30-90 days. This is just a precautionary measure to insure that they don’t have any disease and that the health of the gecko isn’t going to affect any that you have. You need to do this with all newly acquired reptiles no matter how well you trust the individual that you got them from.
Sexing:
Seeing whether you gecko is male or female is easy on older geckos and pretty much impossible on hatchlings. Leopard geckos reach maturity around 10-14 months old. Mature males have “V” shaped pre-anal pores. The males secrete a waxy substance from the pores which they use to mark their territory. They also have hemi penal glands that bulge at the base of the tail behind the hind legs. If your gecko has this bulge then it is a male. Males are also typically larger and have a broader head and neck.
Health:
Keeping an eye on your gecko or geckos is important. They are like any other creature and can have health problems if not properly cared for. Noticing any changes in their habits is vital to catching problems early. If you notice any problems that are concerning then take it to a vet as soon as you can. Any vet will work but one that specializes in reptiles is best. Its always good to find one in your area just in case you need one.